Skip to main content

Breanna body block: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Shoulder dart length​

The length of the shoulder dart

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

The length of the back shoulder dart.

Shoulder dart size​

The size of the shoulder dart

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 10%

The size of the back shoulder dart.

Waist dart length​

The length of the waist dart

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

The length of the back waist dart.

Waist dart size​

The size of the waist dart

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 15%

The size of the back waist dart

Fit​

Biceps ease​

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

Biceps ease

How much room do you want at your upper arm?

Chest ease​

The amount of ease at your chest.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 20%

Chest ease

How much room do you want at the chest? Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your chest circumference measurement when drafting the garment.

Collar ease​

The amount of ease around your neck

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

Cuff ease​

The amount of ease at your wrist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

Cuff ease

How much room do you want at your wrist?

Front scye dart​

Controls the dart at the front of the arm opening. This can help control gaping at the armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 45%

The amount to take out in a dart at the front of the armhole.

Shoulder dart​

Whether or not to include a dart at the shoulder to round the back

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Whether or not to include a back shoulder dart to round the back.

Shoulder ease​

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 4%

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Vertical ease​

The amount of ease to distribute along the length of the garment

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 8%

The amount of ease to distribute along the length of the garment.

Waist dart​

Whether or not to include a dart at the waist to round the back

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Whether or not to include a back waist dart to round the back.

Waist ease​

The amount of ease at the waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 20%

The amount of ease at the waist.

Style​

Bust dart​

Where to place the bust dart to shape the chest

  • Type: List
  • Default: 06:00
  • options:
    • 06:00
    • 07:00
    • 08:00
    • 09:00
    • 10:00
    • 11:00
    • 11:30
    • 12:00
    • 12:30
    • 13:00
    • 13:30
    • 14:00
    • 15:00
    • 16:00
    • 17:00

Where to place the primary bust dart to shape the chest.

Bust dart length​

The length of the bust dart

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 65%
  • Maximum: 95%

The length of the primary bust dart.

Bust darts shaping​

Controls the balance between the main and secondary bust darts

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 75%

Controls the balance between the primary and secondary bust darts.

Secondary bust dart​

Optionally include a secondary bust dart to distribute the shaping of the chest

  • Type: List
  • Default: 13:30
  • options:
    • none
    • 06:00
    • 07:00
    • 08:00
    • 09:00
    • 10:00
    • 11:00
    • 11:30
    • 12:00
    • 12:30
    • 13:00
    • 13:30
    • 14:00
    • 15:00
    • 16:00
    • 17:00

Optionally include a secondary bust dart to distribute the shaping of the chest.

Secondary bust dart length​

The length of the secondary bust dart

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 65%
  • Maximum: 95%

The length of the secondary bust dart.

Sleeve length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -40%
  • Maximum: 10%

Sleeve length bonus

This option will lengthen the sleeves of your sweatshirt.

Advanced​

Across back factor​

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 96%
  • Minimum: 93%
  • Maximum: 100%

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Armhole depth factor​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 100%
  • Minimum: 80%
  • Maximum: 120%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Back neck cutout​

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Front armhole extra cutout​

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Shoulder slope reduction​

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

Sleevecap​

Sleevecap back X​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 55%

The horizontal location of the back inflection point

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap back Y​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 33%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 65%

The vertical location of the back inflection point

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap ease​

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 2.5%

This option determines the amount of ease at the sleevecap.

note

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.

For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.

Sleevecap front X​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 65%

The horizontal location of the front inflection point

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap front Y​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 33%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

The vertical location of the front inflection point

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the first quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12.5%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the second quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12.5%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12.5%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 4.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the third quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12.5%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the fourth quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top X​

Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 75%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.

The horizontal location of the sleevecap top

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top Y​

Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 110%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 165%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.

The vertical location of the sleevecap top

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.