Cathrin: FreeSewing's Cathrin Corset
About Cathrin
Cathrin is an underbust corset or waist trainer.
- 🤯🧵🧵🧵🧵🧵( difficulty = 4/5 )
- 🏷️topsunderwear( 2 tags )
- 🪡boningprecisioncurvedSeaminterfacing( 4 techniques )
- 📐Cathrin Åhlén, Joost De Cock( designers )
- 🧑💻Joost De Cock( developer )
- 💡Sewing Instructions for Cathrin
- ✂️Generate a bespoke sewing pattern for Cathrin
- ❤️#FreeSewingCathrin( Hashtag for social media )
- Linedrawing
- Measurements
- Design Options
- Design Parts
Required Measurements
- Fit
- Number of panels
The number of panels to draft. More panels are better to fit a curvier model. - Waist reduction
The amount by which you want the corset to pinch your waist.
- Number of panels
- Style
- Back drop
How much the back panels lower from your hips towards your center back. Negative values will raise the back. - Back opening
Opening at the center back closure. - Back rise
How much the back panels rise from your arms to your center back. - Front drop
How much the front panels lower from your hips towards your center front. - Front rise
Rise of the front panels at center front, between your breasts. Negative values will lower them. - Hip rise
How much the side panels rise on your hips.
- Back drop
| ID | Description |
|---|---|
cathrin.base | Base |
cathrin.panels | Panels |
cathrin.panel1 | Panel 1 |
cathrin.panel2 | Panel 2 |
cathrin.panel3 | Panel 3 |
cathrin.panel4 | Panel 4 |
cathrin.panel5 | Panel 5 |
cathrin.panel6 | Panel 6 |
Designer Notes
Cathrin is a side-effect of a project that never went anywhere.
I was going to make an elaborate dress, and I needed a corset to wear under it. So I did some research online, and I found this tutorial by Cathrin Åhlén on drafting an underbust corset.
So, I essentially implemented those instructions in code, and the rest is history as the original project got abandoned.
This design is named cathrin after Cathrin Åhlén who taught me (and others)
how to draft such a thing.
joost
What You Need
Corsets are easier to construct than they seem, however they need several specialist items and tools.
You will need BONING. Historic corsets used whale bone to stiffen corsets. Modern corset makers use steel. You can get steel bones either as flat steel and spiral steel - do research, as different types of corset and different corset makers have their own preferences. Plastic bones are also a cheaper option.
You can find a good guide to other tools at Foundations Revealed.
Sample supplies list:
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of core fabric (see Fabric Options)
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of outer fabric (see Fabric Options)
- Boning
- Grommets (size 2)
- About 2 meters of bias tape
- About 3 meters of lacing
- Tools: Grommet setter, awl
Fabric Options
Corsets must be made from fabric with no stretch at all.
For the core fabric, you need a strong fabric, such as coutil, canvas, or denim.
For the outer fabric, you can use most non-stretch fabrics, such as linen, cotton, or silk.
The fabric designed for corset making is called coutil. Although coutil is expensive, not much is needed for a corset. Some cheaper alternatives include canvas, denim and cotton ticking. However, these will stretch over time and are not suitable for any garment with a large waist reduction: they are not strong enough. They are good options for testing the pattern to see how it fits on you.
For corsets made from silk and cotton and other fancy fabrics, you need to use several layers - the fabric you want to be seen, on top of a layer of coutil or other strength layer, and perhaps also a third layer made out of lining which will sit next to the body.
Cutting Instructions
Cut 1 core fabric and 1 outer fabric of the center panel, making sure to cut on the fold.
Cut 2 core and 2 outer of each side panel with good sides together.
For example, for the 11-panel version of Cathrin:
- Panel 1 - Cut 1 core and 1 outer
- Panel 2 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 3 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 4 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 5 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 6 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer