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Cornelius cycling breeches

About Cornelius

Cornelius are cycling breeches based on the Keystone drafting method.

Designer Notes​

When I was a child my dad would tell me stories about hiking in the mountains, something magical for a kid living in The Netherlands. He had a suitcase with his mountaineering things in it, and part of that were some 'knickerbockers', baggy trousers that reached down to your calves.

When I moved to the USA in my thirties and started hiking myself, I would often reflect on those talks and felt sad that I didn't inherit those knickerbockers. Then when I discovered sewing, I decided I would make myself a pair, but no good patterns presented themselves.

Then someone on the Freesewing discord server posted a link to The 'Keystone' Systems, Practical methods of cutting, from around the turn of the century. This contained a drafting system for 'Cycling Breeches', which seemed to be close to what my father used to wear, and could be translated into a Freesewing pattern. A project was born, and I'm happy to be able to present the results to you.

These are not designed as hiking breeches, but cycling breeches. That's close enough for me. They work for either activity, and have many more uses.

Wouter

What You Need​

To make Cornelius, you will need the following:

  • Basic sewing supplies
  • About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see Fabric options)
  • About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric (see Fabric options)
  • Interfacing for the waistband (see Fabric options)
  • A zip or 3 buttons for the fly
  • 3 or 7 Buttons for waistband and leg bands
tip

The number of buttons you need are dependent on the cuff style you are using. Keystone requires 7 in total whereas Traditional and Elegant require 3 in total. You may also want to use smaller buttons for the leg bands compared to the waistband but this is up to you.

Fabric Options​

Main Fabric​

Any bottom (trouser) weight material will work fine for this pattern. Generally you want to avoid anything that is over 7oz (230gsm) as this will more likely be too stiff and uncomfortable. You want something that provides a bit of warmth whilst still being able to drape such as Corduroy or Medium Weight Suiting fabrics. If you are looking for something more historically correct, then Medium weight wool suiting is the way to go. Linen is also an option, especially if you would like something that isn't too warm.

warning

Remember that this garment is intended for cycling so needs to be able to move with your legs when pedalling!

Lining (Pocket) Fabric​

Basic Cotton will do the trick for the pocket bags. If you got left over cotton from another project you can easily use it up for these pockets. Remember that these are intended for cycling so you don't want anything too fancy.

tip

If you have anything you typically use for pockets in trousers that will work. too.

Interfacing​

This pattern requires the waistband to be interfaced. We recommend using a Hair Cloth for the interfacing, you can either use fusible or non-fusible which ever you prefer. If you do not have access to hair cloth you can use any medium to firm interfacing you deem appropriate for waistbands.

tip

If your main fabric is quite light, you may need to interface your leg bands and zipper guard with a light weight interfacing.

Cutting Instructions​

Materials​

  • Main fabric
    • Cut 2 back parts
    • Cut 2 front parts
    • Cut 2 pocket facing parts
    • Cut 2 waistband parts on the fold
    • Cut 4 leg band parts
    • Cut 1 zipper guard part on the fold
  • Lining (Pocket) fabric
    • Cut 2 pocket parts
  • Interfacing
    • Cut 1 waistband part on the fold
tip

If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface the leg bands with a light interfacing.

Cutting Instructions​

Materials​

  • Main fabric
    • Cut 2 back parts
    • Cut 2 front parts
    • Cut 2 pocket facing parts
    • Cut 2 waistband parts on the fold
    • Cut 4 leg band parts
    • Cut 1 zipper guard part on the fold
  • Lining (Pocket) fabric
    • Cut 2 pocket parts
  • Interfacing
    • Cut 1 waistband part on the fold
tip

If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface the leg bands with a light interfacing.