Hugo: FreeSewing's Hugo Hoodie

About Hugo

Hugo is a hooded jumper with raglan sleeves.

• 🤯🧵🧵🧵🧵🧵( difficulty = 3/5 )
• 🏷️tops( 1 tags )
• 🪡curvedSeampocketribbingraglanSleeve( 4 techniques )
• 📐Joost De Cock( designer )
• 🧑‍💻Joost De Cock( developer )
• 💡Sewing Instructions for Hugo
• ✂️Generate a bespoke sewing pattern for Hugo
• ❤️#FreeSewingHugo( Hashtag for social media )

Linedrawing

Measurements

Required Measurements

• Biceps circumference
• Chest circumference
• Head circumference
• Hips circumference
• HPS to bust
• HPS to waist back
• Neck circumference
• Shoulder slope
• Shoulder to shoulder
• Shoulder to wrist
• Waist to armpit
• Waist to hips
• Wrist circumference

Optional Measurements

• High bust

Design Options

• Conditional Options
  • Armhole depth
    Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.
• Fit
  • Biceps ease
    The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.
  • Chest ease
    The amount of ease at your chest.
  • Cuff ease
    The amount of ease at your wrist.
  • Draft for high bust
    Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)
  • Hips ease
    The amount of ease at your hips.
  • Ribbing stretch
    Use this to adapt the pattern to how stretchy the ribbing that you are using is.
• Style
  • Length bonus
    The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.
  • Pocket width
    Determined the width of the pocket.
  • Ribbing height
    Controls the height of the ribbing
  • Sleeve length bonus
    The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.
• Advanced
  • Across back factor
    Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.
  • Back neck cutout
    How deep the neck is cut out at the back
  • Legacy armhole depth
    Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

Design Parts

ID	Description
brian.base	Base
brian.back	Back
brian.front	Front
hugo.front	Front
hugo.back	Back
brian.sleevecap	Sleevecap
brian.sleeve	Sleeve
hugo.sleeve	Sleeve
hugo.pocket	Pocket
hugo.pocketFacing	Pocket facing
hugo.hoodSide	Hood side
hugo.hoodCenter	Hood center
hugo.waistband	Waistband
hugo.cuff	Cuff
hugo.neckBinding	Neck binding

Plugins used

ID	Description
@freesewing/plugin-bust	A FreeSewing plugin that helps with bust-adjusting menswear patterns

Designer Notes

I wanted to try my hand on raglan sleeves, so this is what I ended up with. It's a hooded sweater, with raglan sleeves, and an optional kangaroo pocket.

I named it hugo in memory of Hugo De Cock, my godfather with a name to make pornstars jealous.

joost

What You Need

To make Hugo, you will need the following:

• Basic sewing supplies
• About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see Fabric options)
• Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs

Fabric Options

You may find a dedicated sweatshirt/tracksuit fabric section in your fabric store of choice. If you don't, just head for the knitwear section and look for a thicker comfortable knit fabric.

As far as fibers go, you can go all cotton, or opt for a poly or acryl cotton blend.

Make sure to pay attention to the inside of the fabric. Sweatshirt fabrics come in loopback and brushed back. If you want that OMG-it-feels-so-soft-on-my-skin feeling, go for brushed.

tip

You don't have to use sweatshirt fabric. Other options are available, from fashion-forward neoprene (aka scuba) to a more eyebrow-rising choice like crushed velour (aka velvet).

Or if you have given up on class, you could go for fleece.

Cutting Instructions

• Main fabric
  • Cut 1 front on the fold
  • Cut 1 back on the fold
  • Cut 2 sleeves, good sides together
  • Cut 1 pocket on the fold
  • Cut 2 pocket facing(s), good sides together
  • Cut 4 Hood side(s), 2x2 good sides together
  • Cut 2 hood center(s), good sides together
  • Cut 1 neck binding
• Ribbing
  • Cut 2 cuff(s)
  • Cut 1 waistband

Caveats

• sleeve: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. These notches match on the front and back parts respectively.
• pocket facing and hood: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts

Because Hugo's raglan sleeve also covers a portion of the back and front, the sleeve is the dominant feature of your draft.