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Jane: FreeSewing's Jane 1790's Shift

About Jane

A FreeSewing pattern for a 1790s shift

Designer Notes​

I made Jane because shifts are a very fundamental part of historical sewing but its hard to make or find a pattern that works for you.

A lot of blogs have instructions for drafting, but drafting can be overwhelming. Freesewing allowed me to code a pattern that is sized to your body without you having to do all the work of drafting.

The shift Jane is based on is one I made following Sharon Ann Burnstons instructions. Her work got me interested in shifts and the details and minutia of making one that does what you want it to do.

I wanted to make Jane to give people a great place to start their historical sewing journey, a pattern that is easy to use and lets you move on to the exciting things if you feel that way or play around in the world of squarecut garments like I have.

Zee

What You Need​

To determine how much fabric you need for Jane you take:

  • Twice the length of your body pattern piece + the length of your sleeve pattern piece.
  • If your sleeves and gussets can fit alongside the maximum width of your body pattern piece, then twice the length of the body pattern piece will be enough.

This makes the total amount of fabric needed for Jane as the a-line shape is created by taking away fabric at the top of the shift and adding it to the bottom. Depending on how you cut the neckhole, it is possible to take the gussets out of that leftover fabric.

If you are sewing a historically accurate Jane you will want the following for your sewing supplies:

  • A fine linen thread (2/80 or 2/90, finer if comfortable)
  • Handsewing needles you find work with your size thread
  • Beeswax for waxing thread
  • A thimble is recommended for comfortable handsewing

If you are working with a sewing machine or not constrained by historical accuracy you will want some basic sewing supplies.

Fabric Options​

Historically Accurate Fabrics​

During the Regency period shifts were made out of white linen. If you want to sew a historically accurate Jane, linen is the only choice you have. Linen is a fabric that could withstand the harsh laundry methods of the past better than silk or wool. Because shifts would be washed more than the clothing that went over them, the way the fabric laundered was a priority. Over time, white linens came to represent cleanliness,and could be easily rid of stains by bleaching.

Additionally, the weave would universally be a plain or tabby weave. What would vary is the weight of linen used. Everyone wore body linen, to not wear it wasn’t permissible.

This meant that poorer people might use a coarser woven linen which was generally cheaper than someone with a lot of money who could afford finer woven linen. Additionally, unbleached linen was cheaper than bleached linen.

In your own making, it can be good to keep in mind that finer linen will often be sheerer and will wear more quickly. If you are making a shift to wear on a regular basis, a slightly heavier weight will last longer. The shift Jane was based on is made out of Irish linen that weighs 180 gsm or 5.3 oz/sq yd. This is a linen on the light side of medium weight.

Non-historic fabrics​

A Jane that isn’t historically accurate can be made out of a variety of fabrics. It is drafted for a woven fabric. What fabric that should be largely depends on preference and use. For example if you want to use Jane as a slip or nightgown you could make it in a soft cotton or some slinky silk. In general you want a fairly light weight fabric and if you want to use something heavier, it is smart to add more ease to the pattern. As long as you keep in mind that the pattern was designed for a woven you can use any fabric you want.

Cutting Instructions​

The best way to get a truly straight line for all the straight seams in Jane is to pull a thread. This is done by snipping into the fabric at the right measurement and then carefully pulling on the single thread that the cut exposes. Once pulled all the way out of the fabric it creates a void that is easily followed to cut a straight line.

There are two different ways to cut Jane, with or without a shoulder seam. The pattern doesn’t include a back and front to save on paper.

If you are cutting Jane with a shoulder seam you:

  • Cut 1 body part with front neckline
  • Cut 1 body part with back neckline
  • Cut gore line in front and back parts
  • Repeat on the other side of the front and back parts
  • Cut 2 sleeve parts
  • Cut 2 sleeve gusset parts

If you want to cut Jane without a shoulder seam you:

  • Cut 1 body part on the fold as indicated on the pattern
  • Cut the neckline on the body part
  • With the body part folded at the fold line, cut the side gores
  • Repeat on the other side of the body part
  • Cut 2 sleeve parts
  • Cut 2 sleeve gusset parts

Cutting out without a pattern​

In the past shifts were generally cut without a paper pattern. If you want to cut without a pattern as well you can use the following instructions:

Cut a rectangle double the body length and the body width. You can cut the side gores all in one go. To do this you fold your fabric at the shoulder line and then mark the halfway point down the length.

Then you mark your shoulder width (the distance from the shoulder to the beginning of the dotted line). And mark the side gore by tracing a line from the point marked to the midpoint of the body length.

Then you fold the body in half widthwise. There should be 4 layers of fabric at the edge now. To cut the gore you now cut the line you just drew through all four layers.

Now cut the neckline, the sleeves and the sleeve gussets.