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Sven sweatshirt: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Armhole depth​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: -10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Armhole depth factor (legacy)​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 70%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Draft for high bust​

Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

Fit​

Biceps ease​

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

Biceps ease

How much room do you want at your upper arm?

Chest ease​

The amount of ease at your chest.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: -4%
  • Maximum: 35%

Chest ease

How much room do you want at the chest? Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your chest circumference measurement when drafting the garment.

Collar ease​

The amount of ease around your neck

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 30%

Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

Cuff ease​

The amount of ease at your wrist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 200%

Cuff ease

How much room do you want at your wrist?

Hips ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your hips (the bottom of the sweater)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: -4%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls the amount of ease at your hips (the bottom of the sweater)

Ribbing stretch​

The amount of negative ease to apply to the ribbing used for cuffs and hem.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 30%

Ribbing stretch

The amount of stretch we should foresee for the ribbing at the hem/cuffs.

Shoulder ease​

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -2%
  • Maximum: 6%

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Style​

Length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 30%

Length bonus

This option will lengthen the body of your sweatshirt.

Ribbing​

Whether to finish the hem and cuffs with ribbing or not.

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Ribbing

Do you want ribbing at the hem/cuffs or not?

Ribbing height​

The height of the ribbing on cuffs and hem.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: 3%
  • Maximum: 15%

Ribbing height

The height of the ribbing at the hem/cuffs.

Shoulder seam shift: armhole side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

Shoulder seam shift: collar side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

Sleeve length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Sleeve length bonus

This option will lengthen the sleeves of your sweatshirt.

Advanced​

Across back factor​

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 98%
  • Minimum: 93%
  • Maximum: 100%

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Back neck cutout​

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Front armhole extra cutout​

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 0.5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Legacy armhole depth​

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Sven extends.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Sven will follow.

Shoulder slope reduction​

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 80%

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

Sleeve width guarantee​

Controls how much of the sleeve width will be guaranteed. This determines how much we can alter the sleeve width to fit the sleeve in the armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 90%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 100%

We first draft the arm opening, then we draft a sleeve to fit it.

When all goes well, the sleeve fits perfectly, and this option is not relevant. However, if/when the sleeve does not perfectly fit the arm opening, we need to adapt it.

Since the shape and height of the sleevecap are more important than the width, we tend to prefer adjusting the width to fit the sleevecap.

To avoid the sleeve getting too narrow, we only adapt a portion of the sleeve width. This option allows you to control how much of the sleeve width is guaranteed. Increasing this option will allow us less of the width to play with to fit the sleeve. This way, the resulting sleeve will be closer to the theoretical sleeve width, and we will instead modify (more of) the sleevecap height to fit the sleeve.

Sleevecap​

Sleevecap back X​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 65%

The horizontal location of the back inflection point

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap back Y​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 33%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 65%

The vertical location of the back inflection point

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap ease​

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

This option determines the amount of ease at the sleevecap.

note

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.

For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.

Sleevecap front X​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 65%

The horizontal location of the front inflection point

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap front Y​

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 33%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

The vertical location of the front inflection point

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1.7%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the first quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the second quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the third quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 offset​

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

The offset in the fourth quarter of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 upward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

The upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 downward spread​

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6.3%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

The downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top X​

Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 75%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.

The horizontal location of the sleevecap top

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top Y​

Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 125%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.

The vertical location of the sleevecap top

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.