Wahid waistcoat: Design Options
Conditional Options​
Armhole depth​
Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 2%
- Minimum: -10%
- Maximum: 50%
This option controls the depth of the armhole.
This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version armhole depth factor will.
Draft for high bust​
Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)
- Type: Boolean
- Default: false
Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.
Fit​
Armhole depth factor (legacy)​
Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 70%
- Minimum: 60%
- Maximum: 80%
This option controls the depth of the armhole.
Back scye dart​
The amount to take out in a dart at the back of the armhole.
- Type: Degrees
- Default: 2°
- Minimum: 0°
- Maximum: 6°
This pattern comes with a default 0.5 cm scye dart (think armhole dart) on the back. You can increase or decrease the dart to influence the armhole.
The point of this dart is to make sure the armhole lies flat against your body, rather than gape. Given that there is no sleeve, a gaping armhole is particularly unsightly.
While this dart is used to shape the pattern, you don't have to sew the dart because it's incorporated in the shoulder seam line.
Center back dart​
Whether or not to include a center back dart to fit a rounded back.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 2%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 5%
Since nobody has a perfectly straight back, this pattern tapers in with 0.5 cm at the center back of your neck.
If your back slumps forward a bit, fabric tends to pool at the back of your neck. With no sleeves or collar, this causes your neckline to gape. This option tapers the fabric inwards at the back of your neck. It does so by 0.5 cm by default, but you can increase or decrease that value.
Technically this is not a dart, but I wasn't sure how else to call it. Suggestions welcome.
Chest ease​
The amount of ease at your chest.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 2%
- Minimum: 1%
- Maximum: 10%
How much room do you want at the chest?
Given that a waistcoat has no arms, a little chest ease goes a long way. Add too much, and you'll end up with gaping armholes.
Front scye dart​
The amount to take out in a dart at the front of the armhole.
- Type: Degrees
- Default: 6°
- Minimum: 0°
- Maximum: 12°
This pattern comes with a default 1 cm scye dart (think armhole dart) at the front.
You can increase or decrease the dart to influence the armhole.
What's the point?​
The point of this dart is to make sure the armhole lies flat against your body, rather than gape. Given that there is no sleeve, a gaping armhole is particularly unsightly.
While this dart is used to shape the pattern, you don't have to sew the dart because it's incorporated in the front dart.
Hips ease​
Controls the amount of ease at the hips.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 8%
- Minimum: 2%
- Maximum: 15%
How much room do you want at your hips?
Length bonus​
The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 1%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 8%
This option allows you to lengthen (or shorten) your waistcoat.
Waist ease​
Controls the amount of ease at the waist.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 8%
- Minimum: 2%
- Maximum: 15%
How much room do you want at the waist?
Style​
Buttons​
The amount of buttons to use.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: undefined
- Minimum: 4
- Maximum: 12
How many buttons do you want?
Neck opening style​
Style of the neck opening
- Type: List
- Default: classic
- options:
- classic
- rounded
Do you want a classic straight neckline, or a curved neckline?
Hem radius​
Radius by which the hem is rounded
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 6%
- Minimum: 2%
- Maximum: 12%
Determines the radius of the hem if you opted for a rounded hem.
Hem style​
Style of the front hem
- Type: List
- Default: classic
- options:
- classic
- rounded
- square
Do you want a classic hemline, or a rounded hemline?
Neckline drop​
Determines how low the neckline drops at the front
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 50%
- Minimum: 35%
- Maximum: 85%
This options allows you to lower your neckline below the default.
Pocket location​
Determines the placement of the pocket
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 35%
- Minimum: 25%
- Maximum: 55%
Controls the location of the pockets.
Pocket width​
Determines the width of the pocket
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 10%
- Minimum: 8%
- Maximum: 15%
Controls the width of the pockets.
Welt height​
Determines the height of the welt
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 12.5%
- Minimum: 10%
- Maximum: 20%
Controls the height of the pocket welts.
Advanced​
Back inset​
How much the back of the armhole is cut inwards
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 15%
- Minimum: 10%
- Maximum: 20%
How far do you want your waistcoat armhole to curve inwards on the back side?
The armhole of your waistcoat can curve further inward, given that there is no sleeve attached to it. This influences the style of the waistcoat.
Back neck cutout​
How deep the neck is cut out at the back
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 5%
- Minimum: -2%
- Maximum: 8%
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.
Front inset​
How much the front of the armhole is cut inwards
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 15%
- Minimum: 10%
- Maximum: 20%
How far do you want your waistcoat armhole to curve inwards on the front?
The armhole of your waistcoat can curve further inward, given that there is no sleeve attached to it. This influences the style of the waistcoat.
Legacy armhole depth​
Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)
- Type: Boolean
- Default: false
This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Wahid extends.
The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.
The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.
If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Wahid will follow.
Neck inset​
How much the shoulder seam is cut inwards at the neck
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 5%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 10%
How far do you want your waistcoat to sit away from your collar on your shoulder seam? The default is 2cm.
The shoulder seam of a waistcoat is typically more narrow than your shirt. This option controls how narrow it gets (on the collar side).
Pocket angle​
Angle of the pocket slant
- Type: Degrees
- Default: 5°
- Minimum: 0°
- Maximum: 5°
Controls the angle of the pocket slant.
Shoulder inset​
How much the shoulder seam is cut inwards at the shoulder
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 10%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 20%
How far do you want your waistcoat to sit away from your shoulder on the shoulder seam? The default is 2cm.
The shoulder seam of a waistcoat is typically more narrow than your shirt. This option controls how narrow it gets (on the shoulder side).
Shoulder slope reduction​
The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.
- Type: Percentage
- Default: 0%
- Minimum: 0%
- Maximum: 80%
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.