Tiberius: FreeSewing's Yuri Hoodie
About Yuri
Yuri is a fancy zipless cardigan based on the Huey & Hugo hoodies
- 🤯🧵🧵🧵🧵🧵( difficulty = 3/5 )
- 🏷️tops( 1 tags )
- 🪡curvedSeamflatSleevehembutton( 4 techniques )
- 📐Biou( designer )
- 🧑💻Hellgy( developer )
- 💡Sewing Instructions for Yuri
- ✂️Generate a bespoke sewing pattern for Yuri
- ❤️#FreeSewingYuri( Hashtag for social media )
- Linedrawing
- Measurements
- Design Options
- Design Parts
- Plugins used
- Conditional Options
- Armhole depth factor (legacy)
Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth. - Armhole depth
Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. - Draft for high bust
Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)
- Armhole depth factor (legacy)
- Fit
- Biceps ease
The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease. - Chest ease
The amount of ease at your chest. - Collar ease
The amount of ease around your neck - Cuff ease
The amount of ease at your wrist. - Hips ease
Controls the amount of ease at the hips - Length bonus
The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it. - Shoulder ease
The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness. - Sleeve length bonus
The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.
- Biceps ease
- Style
- Shoulder seam shift: armhole side
Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards. - Shoulder seam shift: collar side
Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.
- Shoulder seam shift: armhole side
- Advanced
- Across back factor
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement. - Back neck cutout
How deep the neck is cut out at the back - Front armhole extra cutout
How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back. - Legacy armhole depth
Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement) - Shoulder slope reduction
The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding. - Sleeve width guarantee
Controls how much of the sleeve width will be guaranteed. This determines how much we can alter the sleeve width to fit the sleeve in the armhole. - Sleevecap
- Sleevecap back X
Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal) - Sleevecap back Y
Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical) - Sleevecap ease
The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam. - Sleevecap front X
Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal) - Sleevecap front Y
Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical) - Sleevecap Q1 offset
Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole) - Sleevecap Q1 downward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole - Sleevecap Q1 upward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder - Sleevecap Q2 offset
Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder) - Sleevecap Q2 downward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole - Sleevecap Q2 upward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder - Sleevecap Q3 offset
Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder) - Sleevecap Q3 upward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder - Sleevecap Q3 downward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole - Sleevecap Q4 offset
Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole) - Sleevecap Q4 upward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder - Sleevecap Q4 downward spread
Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole - Sleevecap top X
Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top. - Sleevecap top Y
Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.
- Sleevecap back X
- Across back factor
| ID | Description |
|---|---|
brian.base | Base |
brian.back | Back |
yuri.back | Back |
brian.front | Front |
yuri.front | Front |
brian.sleevecap | Sleevecap |
brian.sleeve | Sleeve |
yuri.sleeve | Sleeve |
yuri.gusset | Gusset |
yuri.hoodSide | Hood side |
yuri.hoodCenter | Hood center |
| ID | Description |
|---|---|
@freesewing/plugin-bust | A FreeSewing plugin that helps with bust-adjusting menswear patterns |
Designer Notes
The idea behind Yuri was to get a hybrid cardigan/sweatshirt that could be easily opened and closed, and sewn without the hassle of zips. When I started sewing, one of the things I hated the most was sewing zips (but now it's ok, yay!).
I wanted a big shape that would be comfortable to wear while cycling or knitting on the couch, plus size or not, with or without breasts 😃
This pattern was made in collaboration with @biou, my husband, who's also a programmer. We had a lot of fun creating and testing the pattern together and we were happy to be able to contribute a little to FreeSewing 😃
We used a mix of the two Huey & Hugo hoodies and reshaped them a bit to change the front/opening and length, and BAM, Yuri was born!
I recommend using a soft sweatshirt fabric, you can add a lining but it's not essential. It can be nice in red for a little red hood costume, or a nice gift for a pregnant person 😃
What You Need
To make Yuri, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2.5 meters (2.8 yards) of a suitable fabric (see Fabric options)
- 2 large buttons
As with all knitwear and stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
If you do not have one of those, don't despair. You don't really need it. Because none of the seams get stretched out, you can just sew this pattern with a regular straight stitch.
Fabric Options
You may find a dedicated sweatshirt/tracksuit fabric section in your fabric store of choice. If you don't, just head for the knitwear section and look for a thicker comfortable knit fabric.
As far as fibers go, you can go all cotton, or opt for a poly or acryl cotton blend.
Make sure to pay attention to the inside of the fabric. Sweatshirt fabrics come in loopback and brushed back. If you want that OMG-it-feels-so-soft-on-my-skin feeling, go for brushed.
You don't have to use sweatshirt fabric. Other options are available, from fashion-forward neoprene (aka scuba) to a more eyebrow-rising choice like crushed velour (aka velvet).
Or if you have given up on class, you could go for fleece.
Cutting Instructions
- Cut 2 fronts with good sides together
- Cut 1 back on the fold
- Cut 2 sleeves with good sides together
- Cut 2 gussets on the fold with good sides together
- Cut 4 hood sides 2 x 2 with good sides together for the outer hood and inner hood
- Cut 2 hood centers with good sides together