Brian body block: Design Options
Fit
Biceps ease
The amount of ease at your upper arm.
Chest ease
This option controls the ease at your chest.
Collar ease
Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.
Cuff ease
This option controls the ease at your wrist.
Draft for high bust
Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.
Shoulder ease
Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.
This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.
Style
Length bonus
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
By default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.
Shoulder seam shift: Armhole side
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
Shoulder seam shift: Collar side
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
Sleeve length bonus
This option controls how to lengthen the sleeves.
Advanced
Armhole depth
This option controls the depth of the armhole.
This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version armhole depth factor will.
Across back factor
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
Back neck cutout
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.
Front armhole extra cutout
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.
Legacy armhole depth
This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian.
The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.
The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.
If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth.
shoulder slope reduction
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.
Sleeve width guarantee
We first draft the arm opening, then we draft a sleeve to fit it.
When all goes well, the sleeve fits perfectly, and this option is not relevant. However, if/when the sleeve does not perfectly fit the arm opening, we need to adapt it.
Since the shape and height of the sleevecap are more important than the width, we tend to prefer adjusting the width to fit the sleevecap.
To avoid the sleeve getting too narrow, we only adapt a portion of the sleeve width. This option allows you to control how much of the sleeve width is guaranteed. Increasing this option will allow us less of the width to play with to fit the sleeve. This way, the resulting sleeve will be closer to the theoretical sleeve width, and we will instead modify (more of) the sleevecap height to fit the sleeve.
Sleevecap
Sleevecap back X
This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap back Y
This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap ease
This option determines the amount of ease at the sleevecap.
The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.
For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.
Sleevecap front X
This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap front Y
This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q1 offset
This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q1 downward spread
This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q1 upward spread
This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q2 offset
This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q2 downward spread
This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q2 upward spread
This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q3 offset
This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q3 downward spread
This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q3 upward spread
This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q4 offset
This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q4 downward spread
This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
Sleevecap Q4 upward spread
This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.
See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.