Brian body block: Design Options

Conditional Options

Armhole depth

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

note

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Armhole depth factor (legacy)

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 70%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Draft for high bust

Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

Fit

Biceps ease

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

The amount of ease at your upper arm.

Chest ease

The amount of ease at your chest.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -4%
• Maximum: 35%

This option controls the ease at your chest.

Collar ease

The amount of ease around your neck

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

Cuff ease

The amount of ease at your wrist.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 200%

This option controls the ease at your wrist.

Shoulder ease

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -2%
• Maximum: 6%

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Style

Length bonus

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -4%
• Maximum: 60%

This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.

note

By default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.

Shoulder seam shift: armhole side

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -100%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.

• Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
• Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

Shoulder seam shift: collar side

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -100%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.

• Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
• Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

Sleeve length bonus

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 10%

This option controls how to lengthen the sleeves.

Advanced

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 98%
• Minimum: 93%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Back neck cutout

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 2%
• Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Front armhole extra cutout

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0.2%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 0.5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Legacy armhole depth

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth.

Shoulder slope reduction

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

Sleeve width guarantee

Controls how much of the sleeve width will be guaranteed. This determines how much we can alter the sleeve width to fit the sleeve in the armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 90%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 100%

We first draft the arm opening, then we draft a sleeve to fit it.

When all goes well, the sleeve fits perfectly, and this option is not relevant. However, if/when the sleeve does not perfectly fit the arm opening, we need to adapt it.

Since the shape and height of the sleevecap are more important than the width, we tend to prefer adjusting the width to fit the sleevecap.

To avoid the sleeve getting too narrow, we only adapt a portion of the sleeve width. This option allows you to control how much of the sleeve width is guaranteed. Increasing this option will allow us less of the width to play with to fit the sleeve. This way, the resulting sleeve will be closer to the theoretical sleeve width, and we will instead modify (more of) the sleevecap height to fit the sleeve.

Sleevecap

Sleevecap back X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap back Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap ease

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

This option determines the amount of ease at the sleevecap.

note

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.

For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.

Sleevecap front X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap front Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1.7%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 7%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 6.3%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top X

Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 75%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top Y

Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 45%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 125%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.