Simone: FreeSewing's Simone Shirt

About Simone

Simone is simon, adapted for breasts.

• 🤯🧵🧵🧵🧵🧵( difficulty = 4/5 )
• 🏷️tops( 1 tags )
• 🪡hembuttoninterfacingcurvedSeamflatFelledSeamflatSleeve( 6 techniques )
• 📐Joost De Cock( designer )
• 🧑‍💻Joost De Cock( developer )
• 💡Sewing Instructions for Simone
• ✂️Generate a bespoke sewing pattern for Simone
• ❤️#FreeSewingSimone( Hashtag for social media )

Linedrawing

Measurements

Required Measurements

• Biceps circumference
• Bust span
• Chest circumference
• High bust
• Hips circumference
• HPS to bust
• HPS to waist back
• Neck circumference
• Shoulder slope
• Shoulder to shoulder
• Shoulder to wrist
• Waist circumference
• Waist to armpit
• Waist to hips
• Wrist circumference

Design Options

• Conditional Options
  • Button placket style
    Style of the button placket.
  • Buttonhole placket style
    Style of the buttonhole placket.
  • Armhole depth factor (legacy)
    Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.
  • Armhole depth
    Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.
• Fit
  • Biceps ease
    The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.
  • Chest ease
    The amount of ease at your chest.
  • Collar ease
    The amount of ease around your neck
  • Cuff ease
    The amount of ease at your wrist.
  • Hips ease
    Controls the amount of ease at the hips.
  • Length bonus
    The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.
  • Round back
    To fit a round(er) back, this adds length to the center back (at the yoke) that tapers of towards the sides.
  • Shoulder ease
    The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.
  • Sleeve length bonus
    The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.
  • Waist ease
    The amount of ease at your (natural) waist.
• Style
  • Back darts
    Whether or not to include back darts
  • Box pleat
    Whether to include a box pleat at the back or not
  • Contour
    Controls how sharply the extra room for breasts is removed again below the chest
  • Hem curve
    The height of the curve on a curved hem.
  • Hem style
    The style of the shirt hem.
  • Shoulder seam shift: armhole side
    Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.
  • Shoulder seam shift: collar side
    Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.
  • Split yoke
    Whether to draft a split or regular yoke. A split yoke is typically used for using a different grainline on both halves for visual effect
  • Yoke height
    Controls the height of the yoke
  • Closure
    • Bust-aligned buttons
      Optional button spacing strategies to ensure a button at the bustline
    • Button free length
      How much of the bottom of the front closure to keep button-free.
    • Button placket width
      Width of the button placket.
    • Buttonhole placket fold width
      Width of the buttonhole placket fold.
    • Buttonhole placket width
      Width of the buttonhole placket.
    • Number of buttons
      The number of buttons on the front closure.
    • Extra top button
      Whether or not to include an extra top button between the collar button and the first shirt button on the front closure.
    • Separate button placket
      Draft a separate button placket
    • Separate buttonhole placket
      Draft a separate buttonhole placket.
  • Collar
    • Collar angle
      The angle of the collar tips.
    • Collar bend
      The bend of the collar.
    • Collar flare
      The flare of the collar tips.
    • Collar gap
      The gap between the two collar ends.
    • Collar roll
      The amount by which the top collar is larger than the undercollar.
    • Collar stand bend
      The bend of the collar stand.
    • Collar stand curve
      The curve of the collar stand.
    • Collar stand width
      Width of the collar stand.
    • Collar width
      Width of the collar relative to collar stand.
  • Cuffs
    • Cuff narrow button
      Whether to include a button to tie the cuffs more narrow. This option is only relevant for barrel cuffs.
    • Cuff button rows
      Whether to draft a single or double row of cuff buttons. This option is only relevant for barrel cuffs.
    • Cuff drape
      The amount by which the sleeve is wider than the cuff where the are joined.
    • Cuff length
      The length of the cuffs.
    • Cuff style
      What style of cuffs do you prefer?
    • Sleeve placket length
      The length of the sleeve placket.
    • Sleeve placket width
      The width of the sleeve placket.
• Advanced
  • Across back factor
    Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.
  • Back dart shaping
    The amount of shaping that is done by the back darts
  • Back neck cutout
    How deep the neck is cut out at the back
  • Box pleat fold
    The amount by with the box pleat folds inwards
  • Box pleat width
    The total width of the box pleat
  • Bust dart angle
    Controls the angle by which the (side) bust dart slopes downward
  • Bust dart length
    Controls how close the bust dart approaches the bust point
  • Flat-felled seam allowance
    The amount of seam allowance on flat-felled seams as a proportion of the regular seam allowance
  • Front armhole extra cutout
    How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.
  • Front dart length
    Controls how close the front dart approaches the bust point
  • Front darts
    Whether to include front darts or not
  • Legacy armhole depth
    Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)
  • Shoulder slope reduction
    The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.
  • Sleeve width guarantee
    Controls how much of the sleeve width will be guaranteed. This determines how much we can alter the sleeve width to fit the sleeve in the armhole.
  • Sleevecap
    • Sleevecap back X
      Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)
    • Sleevecap back Y
      Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)
    • Sleevecap ease
      The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.
    • Sleevecap front X
      Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)
    • Sleevecap front Y
      Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)
    • Sleevecap Q1 offset
      Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)
    • Sleevecap Q1 downward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole
    • Sleevecap Q1 upward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder
    • Sleevecap Q2 offset
      Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)
    • Sleevecap Q2 downward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole
    • Sleevecap Q2 upward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder
    • Sleevecap Q3 offset
      Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)
    • Sleevecap Q3 upward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder
    • Sleevecap Q3 downward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole
    • Sleevecap Q4 offset
      Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)
    • Sleevecap Q4 upward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder
    • Sleevecap Q4 downward spread
      Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole
    • Sleevecap top X
      Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.
    • Sleevecap top Y
      Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

Design Parts

ID	Description
brian.base	Base
brian.back	Back
simon.back	Back
brian.front	Front
simon.front	Front
simone.fbaFront	FBA Front
simon.collar	Collar
simon.collarStand	Collar stand
simon.cuff	Cuff
brian.sleevecap	Sleevecap
brian.sleeve	Sleeve
simon.sleeve	Sleeve
simon.sleevePlacketOverlap	Sleeve placket overlap
simon.sleevePlacketUnderlap	Sleeve placket underlap
simon.yoke	Yoke
simon.buttonholePlacket	Buttonhole placket
simon.buttonPlacket	Button placket
simon.frontRight	Front right
simon.frontLeft	Front left

Plugins used

ID	Description
@freesewing/plugin-bust	A FreeSewing plugin that helps with bust-adjusting menswear patterns
@freesewing/plugin-flip	A FreeSewing plugin to flip parts horizontally

Designer Notes

Simone is essentially Simon with a full-bust adjustment.

The initial intent was to allow people with breasts to have a better fitted shirt design, but anyone can choose Simone for a more female-presenting look due to the bust dart.

Simone has all of the options Simon has, it only adds the FBA to it.

joost

What You Need

note

Simone is our Simon pattern adapted for breasts.

Please refer to the Simon documentation.

Fabric Options

note

Simone is our Simon pattern adapted for breasts.

Please refer to the Simon documentation.

Cutting Instructions

note

Simone is our Simon pattern adapted for breasts.

Please refer to the Simon documentation.