Simone shirt: Design Options

Conditional Options

Button placket style

Style of the button placket.

• Type: List
• Default: classic
• options:
  • classic
  • seamless

Do you want the button placket to be sewn in place (classic style), or folded back and held in place by the buttons (seamless style)?

tip

Seamless is less work, and it looks great.

note

As seamless is only possible on a cut-on placket, this option is ignored if you choose a separate button placket.

Buttonhole placket style

Style of the buttonhole placket.

• Type: List
• Default: seamless
• options:
  • classic
  • seamless

Do you want classic buttonhole placket, or a seamless one (sometimes called French style)?

tip

Seamless is less work, and it looks great.

note

As seamless is only possible on a cut-on placket, this option is ignored if you choose a separate buttonhole placket.

Armhole depth

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Armhole depth factor (legacy)

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 70%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Fit

Biceps ease

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

How much do you want the sleeve to be wider than your upperarm circumference?

note

What's the point?

It's actually men with big arms who prefer a tighter fit, and thus less ease here. That's because it draws attention to their strong upper arms.

If your upper arms are more skinny, you'll want some more ease here to smooth things out a bit.

warning

We will try to respect your choice here, but out priority is to fit the sleeve in the armhole.

Chest ease

The amount of ease at your chest.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -4%
• Maximum: 35%

How much room do you want at the chest?

Collar ease

The amount of ease around your neck

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

How much ease do you want for your collar?

If you feel that a collar is suffocating, you can give yourself a bit more ease and it will sit more loose around your neck. You could also lower the ease for a tighter fit.

Cuff ease

The amount of ease at your wrist.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 40%

Determines how much the cuff is larger than your wrist.

Change this option to give yourself more or less room at the wrist.

note

You might want more if you want the shirt cuff to fit over a bulky watch. Less room might be better if you want to wear the shirt under an overgarment like a sweater.

Those wanting to wear their shirt under a sweater should also have a look at the barrelcuff narrow button option.

Hips ease

Controls the amount of ease at the hips.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 35%

How much room do you want at the hips?

Length bonus

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: -4%
• Maximum: 60%

How much shirt do you want to be able to tuck in your trousers?

note

What's the point?

Keeping your shirt tucked neatly in your trousers is why you need this extra length. Nobody needs to know about that Justin Bieber tattoo on your lower back.

If you want a more casual shirt to wear over your trousers, you will want to lower this.

Round back

To fit a round(er) back, this adds length to the center back (at the yoke) that tapers of towards the sides.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

Controls how round the back yoke seam is by adding length to the center back at the yoke that tapers of towards the sides.

• Increase this option to round the back yoke seam
• Decrease this option to straighten the back yoke seam

Shoulder ease

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 15%

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Sleeve length bonus

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3.5%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 10%

How much extra length do you want for your sleeves?

Waist ease

The amount of ease at your (natural) waist.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 35%

How much room do you want at the waist?

Style

Back darts

Whether or not to include back darts

• Type: List
• Default: auto
• options:
  • auto
  • never
  • always

By default, the pattern will add back darts when they are needed. But you can also choose to always, or never, have back darts.

Box pleat

Whether to include a box pleat at the back or not

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Adds a box pleat to the back.

Contour

Controls how sharply the extra room for breasts is removed again below the chest

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 75%

Controls how sharply the extra room for breasts is removed again below the chest.

• Increase this option to sharpen the curve below the bust darts
• Decrease this option to loosen the curve below the bust darts

Hem curve

The height of the curve on a curved hem.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 100%

How much do you want the hem to curve upwards?

note

• This applies only to the baseball and slashed hem styles. If you chose a straight hem, this will be ignored.
• This value can never be more than the length bonus. If it is, it will silently be set to the length bonus value.
• If you set this to zero, you'll get a straight hem regardless of what hem style you pick.

Hem style

The style of the shirt hem.

• Type: List
• Default: straight
• options:
  • straight
  • baseball
  • slashed

What style of hem line do you want?

• Straight
• Baseball
• Slashed

Shoulder seam shift: armhole side

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -100%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.

• Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
• Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

Shoulder seam shift: collar side

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -100%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.

• Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
• Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

Split yoke

Whether to draft a split or regular yoke. A split yoke is typically used for using a different grainline on both halves for visual effect

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Do you want a split yoke?

note

What's the point?

With a split yoke, only half the yoke is included on the pattern, and you'll have to cut 4 parts instead of 2, and sew them together.

It's a bit more work, but it allows you to align the grain line differently on both halves of the yoke, an effect that some people like.

Yoke height

Controls the height of the yoke

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 70%
• Minimum: 40%
• Maximum: 90%

Controls the height of the yoke seam.

• Increase this option to lower the height and lengthen the yoke
• Decrease this option to raise the height and shorten the yoke

Closure

Bust-aligned buttons

Optional button spacing strategies to ensure a button at the bustline

• Type: List
• Default: disabled
• options:
  • even
  • split
  • disabled

Select an optional bust-aligned button spacing strategy.

• Even spacing
• Split spacing
• Disabled

By default bust-aligned button spacing is "Disabled", and center front buttons are spaced without regard to the bustline. Choosing "Even spacing" or "Split spacing" will ensure that there is a button positioned on the bustline to prevent possible gaping.

• Even spacing: Button spacing is calculated for buttons above the bustline, and this spacing is used for all buttons. The Button free length setting is ignored for this option. This option might cause the bottommost button to be positioned in a non-optimal location. If this occurs, you may want to experiment with adding or subtracting a button to see if it produces a better design.
• Split spacing: Different button spacings are calculated and used for buttons above and below the bustline. Buttons above the bustline are spaced evenly. Buttons below the bustline are also spaced evenly, except for the topmost and bottommost buttons. The spacings for those buttons are shifted slightly to make the transition between the top and bottom spacings less noticeable. The Button free length setting is obeyed for this option. This option might cause non-optimal, visibly different spacings above and below the bustline. If this occurs, you may want to experiment with adding or subtracting a button to see if it produces a better design.
• Disabled: Even button spacing is calculated and used, without regard to the bustline. The Button free length setting is obeyed for this option.

Button free length

How much of the bottom of the front closure to keep button-free.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 15%

How much before your waistband do you want your last button to sit?

note

What's the point?

Having buttons below your waistband is considered by many to be an annoyance. They get caught up in your belt, and complicate bathroom breaks.

By default, the last button sits 1cm above your waistband, but this option allows you to move it further upwards for that shirt you are going to wear with those high-waisted trousers.

If you want to have buttons below your waistband, you can. You should enter a negative value here, making sure it's within the length bonus you have available.

Button placket width

Width of the button placket.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 2%
• Maximum: 8%

The width of your button placket.

Buttonhole placket fold width

Width of the buttonhole placket fold.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 16%
• Minimum: 8%
• Maximum: 24%

The width of the fold on a classic style buttonhole placket.

note

If you have a fabric with a pattern (striped or checkers for example) you can set the fold to half the width of your repeating pattern. This way, your pattern will match perfectly.

This only applies to a classic placket. So it will be ignored if you opted for a seamless buttonhole placket style.

Buttonhole placket width

Width of the buttonhole placket.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 12%

The width of your buttonhole placket.

Number of buttons

The number of buttons on the front closure.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: undefined
• Minimum: 4
• Maximum: 12

The number of buttons on your shirt. Excluding cuff buttons, and the optional extra top button.

Extra top button

Whether or not to include an extra top button between the collar button and the first shirt button on the front closure.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Do you want an extra button between the top front button and collar stand button?

note

Why an extra button?

This extra button allows you to undo your collar button with your shirt staying relatively closed.

It's an extra button you'll want if you plan to still look good in the bar after your work day with your top button undone and your tie somewhat loose. The extra button is also great if you are wearing your shirt under an overgarment with the top button undone. For example, under a sweater.

Do not include the top button if you want a more casual look.

This extra button is added to the number of buttons on the front. It does not replace another button.

Separate button placket

Draft a separate button placket

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Whether or not you want the button placket to be a separate pattern part.

Separate buttonhole placket

Draft a separate buttonhole placket.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Whether or not you want the buttonhole placket to be a separate pattern part.

Collar

Collar angle

The angle of the collar tips.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 85°
• Minimum: 60°
• Maximum: 130°

The number of degrees between the collar edge and the grainline.

note

What's the point?

Together with the collar height, this is the most important factor for the style of your collar.

Higher values mean a more cut-away style.

In the example image, the top is 80 degrees (the default) and the bottom is 110 degrees.

Collar bend

The bend of the collar.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

How much the collar bends (on the collar stand side), rather than being straight.

note

This influences how the collar lies against the collar stand.

Collar flare

The flare of the collar tips.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 3.5°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 10°

How much the collar flares out (at the collar edge side), rather than being straight.

note

This influences the length of your collar tips.

Collar gap

The gap between the two collar ends.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 6%

Distance the collar sits apart when closed.

note

This is really mostly a style choice, but a wider collar gap (together with the collar angle) can accommodate a wider tie (knot).

Collar roll

The amount by which the top collar is larger than the undercollar.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 6%

How much the collar is taller than the collar stand at center back.

note

What's the point?

The collar starts upwards from the collar stand and then rolls over downwards. But it still needs to cover the collar stand. For that, it needs to be a bit longer.

Increasing this does not make the collar higher (use the collar stand height for that) but rather makes it descend further down.

Collar stand bend

The bend of the collar stand.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 3°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 5°

How much the collar stand bends in the middle, rather than being straight. This influences how your collar will sit around your neck.

Collar stand curve

The curve of the collar stand.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 2°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 5°

How much the collar stand curves up at the edges.

note

You can tweak this to make sure the edges of your collar stand at the front or nicely horizontal.

Collar stand width

Width of the collar stand.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 3%
• Maximum: 13%

The height of your collar stand.

note

This is the main parameter to change the overall height of your collar. This defaults to a modern relatively slim collar, but you can crank it up all the way to Karl Lagerfeld style.

Collar width

Width of the collar relative to collar stand.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 120%
• Minimum: 90%
• Maximum: 200%

The width of your collar, as a proportion of the collar stand width.

note

This can affect how well the collar covers the collar stand. Increasing this value will help the collar cover the collar stand at smaller sizes or with thicker ties.

Cuffs

Cuff narrow button

Whether to include a button to tie the cuffs more narrow. This option is only relevant for barrel cuffs.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Do you want an extra button to button up your cuff more tightly?

If you are wearing your shirt under a tight-fitting (at the wrist) sweater or cardigan, this button allows you to make your cuff more narrow, so it doesn't bunch up all ugly.

note

This does only apply to barrelcuffs. So if you picked a French cuff as cuff style this will be ignored.

Cuff button rows

Whether to draft a single or double row of cuff buttons. This option is only relevant for barrel cuffs.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: undefined
• Minimum: 1
• Maximum: 2

Do you want a single button on your barrelcuff, or two?

note

This does only apply to barrelcuffs. So if you picked a French cuff as cuff style this will be ignored.

Cuff drape

The amount by which the sleeve is wider than the cuff where the are joined.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

How much the end of the sleeve is wider than the wrist.

note

This changes the look of the sleeve a bit. More drape makes the sleeve wider and gives you a more blousy effect, whereas less drape makes the sleeve more narrow.

The drape will be worked into the cuff with pleats.

Cuff length

The length of the cuffs.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 3%
• Maximum: 15%

The length of your cuffs.

note

This will not influence the total length of your sleeve.

Cuff style

What style of cuffs do you prefer?

• Type: List
• Default: angledBarrelCuff
• options:
  • roundedBarrelCuff
  • angledBarrelCuff
  • straightBarrelCuff
  • roundedFrenchCuff
  • angledFrenchCuff
  • straightFrenchCuff

What style of cuff do you want?

• Rounded barrel cuff
• Chamfer barrel cuff
• Straight barrel cuff
• Rounded French cuff
• Chamfer French cuff
• Straight French cuff

Sleeve placket length

The length of the sleeve placket.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: 15%
• Maximum: 35%

How long do you want the sleeve placket to be?

note

The longer your sleeve placket is, the easier it is to get out of your shirt sleeve. It also influences what things will look like when you roll up your sleeves

Sleeve placket width

The width of the sleeve placket.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 13%
• Minimum: 8%
• Maximum: 18%

How wide do you want the sleeve placket to be?

Advanced

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 98%
• Minimum: 93%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Back dart shaping

The amount of shaping that is done by the back darts

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: 5%
• Maximum: 75%

Controls how much of the waist shaping will happing in the backdarts.

You can tweak this setting to balance the waist reduction across side seams, back darts and (optional) front darts.

Back neck cutout

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 2%
• Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Box pleat fold

The amount by with the box pleat folds inwards

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 20%

Controls how much the box pleat at the back is folded/pleated.

Box pleat width

The total width of the box pleat

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 7%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 10%

Controls the width of the (optional) box pleat at the back.

Bust dart angle

Controls the angle by which the (side) bust dart slopes downward

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 10°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle by which the (side) bust dart slopes downward.

• Increase this option to angle the bust darts downwards and towards the floor
• Decrease this option to angle the bust darts upwards and towards the armscye

Bust dart length

Controls how close the bust dart approaches the bust point

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 80%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 90%

Controls how close the bust darts approach the bust points.

• Increase this option to lengthen the bust darts moving them closer to the bust points
• Decrease this option to shorten the bust darts moving them further away from the bust points

Flat-felled seam allowance

The amount of seam allowance on flat-felled seams as a proportion of the regular seam allowance

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 150%
• Minimum: 100%
• Maximum: 200%

Controls the amount of seam allowance on flat-felled seams.

The armhole and side seams on the shirt are flat-felled seams, and those require extra seam allowance. How much is a matter of personal preference, since some people prefer wider flat-felled seams, while others have a preference for more narrow flat-felled seams.

This option controls the amount of flat-felled seam allowance as a factor of the regular seam allowance.

Front armhole extra cutout

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0.2%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 0.5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Front dart length

Controls how close the front dart approaches the bust point

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 45%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 60%

Controls how close the front waist darts approach the bust points.

• Increase this option to lengthen the front waist darts moving them closer to the bust points
• Decrease this option to shorten the front waist darts moving them further away from the bust points

Front darts

Whether to include front darts or not

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Whether to include front waist darts or not.

Legacy armhole depth

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Simone extends.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Simone will follow.

Shoulder slope reduction

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

Sleeve width guarantee

Controls how much of the sleeve width will be guaranteed. This determines how much we can alter the sleeve width to fit the sleeve in the armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 90%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 100%

We first draft the arm opening, then we draft a sleeve to fit it.

When all goes well, the sleeve fits perfectly, and this option is not relevant. However, if/when the sleeve does not perfectly fit the arm opening, we need to adapt it.

Since the shape and height of the sleevecap are more important than the width, we tend to prefer adjusting the width to fit the sleevecap.

To avoid the sleeve getting too narrow, we only adapt a portion of the sleeve width. This option allows you to control how much of the sleeve width is guaranteed. Increasing this option will allow us less of the width to play with to fit the sleeve. This way, the resulting sleeve will be closer to the theoretical sleeve width, and we will instead modify (more of) the sleevecap height to fit the sleeve.

Sleevecap

Sleevecap back X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap back Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap ease

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

Determines the amount of sleevecap ease.

note

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.

For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.

Sleevecap front X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap front Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1.7%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 7%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 6.3%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top X

Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 75%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top Y

Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 45%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 125%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.