Teagan T-shirt: Design Options

Conditional Options

Waist ease

Ease at the waist (only applies when the waist is fitted).

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: 8%
• Maximum: 40%

If (and only if) you request to fit the waist, this option allows you to control the amount of ease at the waist.

If the waist is not fitted, this option is ignored.

Armhole depth

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Armhole depth factor (legacy)

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 70%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Fit

Back neck cutout

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 12%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Chest ease

The amount of ease at your chest.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 12%
• Minimum: 5%
• Maximum: 25%

Controls the amount of ease at your chest

Draft for high bust

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Choose this option to draft Teagan to your high bust measurement, rather than your full chest circumference.

This option is specifically for people with breasts. Enabling it will draft Teagan to your high bust measurement and let ease and stretch fit your breasts.

This gives you what is generally considered to be a more flattering fit.

If you don't enable this option, Teagan will essentially be drafted for a body without breasts that has the same chest circumference as your body with breasts. This will cause a bunch of extra fabric at the chest and armholes that will make the T-shirt look like a poor fit.

Enable this option and we'll draft to your high bust, fitting your body without breasts as it were, and then allowing your breasts to fill out the T-shirt's ease (and possibly stretch depending on your high bust / bust ratio).

tip

This option has no effect when there's no high bust measurement provided

Fit the waist

Whether or not to fit the waist or rather only fit chest and hips.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Enable this option to fit the waist of your Teagan, rather than draft a straight T-shirt shape.

This will yield best results for those with a smaller waist who are looking for a more hourglass-shaped fitted T-shirt.

If your waist is larger than your hips, you should not enable this option as you may end up with a T-shirt that you can't get in to.

Hips ease

Ease at the hips.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 18%
• Minimum: 8%
• Maximum: 30%

Controls the amount of ease at the hips. In other words, this controls the ease at the bottom of your T-shirt

Sleeve length

Controls the length of your sleeves

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the length of the sleeves.

Style

Length bonus

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -20%
• Maximum: 60%

Controls how much longer than the default you want your T-shirt to be.

Neckline curvature

Controls the curvature of the neckline.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 70%

Controls the curvature of the neck opening.

Neckline depth

Controls how deep the neck opening plunges down.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 40%

Controls the depth of the neck opening.

Neckline width

Controls the width of the neck opening.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls the width of the neck opening.

Sleeve ease

Amount of ease of your sleeves

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 5%
• Maximum: 35%

Controls the amount of ease at the sleeve/your arm.

Advanced

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 98%
• Minimum: 93%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Legacy armhole depth

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Teagan extends.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Teagan will follow.

Sleevecap

Sleevecap back X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap back Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap ease

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

This option determines the amount of ease at the sleevecap.

note

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.

For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.

Sleevecap front X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap front Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1.7%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 7%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 6.3%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top X

Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 75%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top Y

Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 45%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 125%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.