Wahid: FreeSewing's Wahid Waistcoat

About Wahid

Wahid is a classic fitted waistcoat.

• 🤯🧵🧵🧵🧵🧵( difficulty = 4/5 )
• 🏷️tops( 1 tags )
• 🪡curvedSeamheminterfacingliningweltPocketbutton( 6 techniques )
• 📐Joost De Cock( designer )
• 🧑‍💻Joost De Cock( developer )
• 💡Sewing Instructions for Wahid
• ✂️Generate a bespoke sewing pattern for Wahid
• ❤️#FreeSewingWahid( Hashtag for social media )

Linedrawing

Measurements

Required Measurements

• Biceps circumference
• Chest circumference
• Hips circumference
• HPS to bust
• HPS to waist back
• Neck circumference
• Shoulder slope
• Shoulder to shoulder
• Waist circumference
• Waist to armpit
• Waist to hips

Optional Measurements

• High bust

Design Options

• Conditional Options
  • Armhole depth
    Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.
  • Draft for high bust
    Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)
• Fit
  • Armhole depth factor (legacy)
    Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.
  • Back scye dart
    The amount to take out in a dart at the back of the armhole.
  • Center back dart
    Whether or not to include a center back dart to fit a rounded back.
  • Chest ease
    The amount of ease at your chest.
  • Front scye dart
    The amount to take out in a dart at the front of the armhole.
  • Hips ease
    Controls the amount of ease at the hips.
  • Length bonus
    The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.
  • Waist ease
    Controls the amount of ease at the waist.
• Style
  • Buttons
    The amount of buttons to use.
  • Neck opening style
    Style of the neck opening
  • Hem radius
    Radius by which the hem is rounded
  • Hem style
    Style of the front hem
  • Neckline drop
    Determines how low the neckline drops at the front
  • Pocket location
    Determines the placement of the pocket
  • Pocket width
    Determines the width of the pocket
  • Welt height
    Determines the height of the welt
• Advanced
  • Back inset
    How much the back of the armhole is cut inwards
  • Back neck cutout
    How deep the neck is cut out at the back
  • Front inset
    How much the front of the armhole is cut inwards
  • Legacy armhole depth
    Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)
  • Neck inset
    How much the shoulder seam is cut inwards at the neck
  • Pocket angle
    Angle of the pocket slant
  • Shoulder inset
    How much the shoulder seam is cut inwards at the shoulder
  • Shoulder slope reduction
    The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

Design Parts

ID	Description
brian.base	Base
brian.back	Back
brian.front	Front
wahid.front	Front
wahid.back	Back
wahid.frontFacing	Front facing
wahid.frontLining	Front lining
wahid.pocketWelt	Pocket welt
wahid.pocketBag	Pocket bag
wahid.pocketFacing	Pocket facing
wahid.pocketInterfacing	Pocket interfacing

Plugins used

ID	Description
@freesewing/plugin-bust	A FreeSewing plugin that helps with bust-adjusting menswear patterns

Designer Notes

I like waistcoats. I think they are not only pretty to look at, they are also warm, cut down on the amount of shirt ironing you have to do, and have these cute little pockets you can put tiny things in.

So, I designed Wahid so I could make waistcoats for myself.

joost

What You Need

To make Wahid, you will need the following:

• Basic sewing supplies
• About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric (see Fabric options)
• About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• Buttons

Fabric Options

All suiting fabrics are a great choice for your waistcoats. Any fabric shop that's worth your business should have a suiting section. You can just walk in, ask where you can find the fabric for suits, and pick out something you like.

These fabrics are typically wool, but you can also be a bit more creative and go for something else.

tip

You do need a bit of weight though. Denim is fine, some light cotton is not.

Cutting Instructions

• Main fabric
  • Cut 2 front(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 back(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 front facing(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 pocket welt(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 pocket facing(s) with good sides together
• Lining fabric
  • Cut 2 front lining(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 back(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 pocket bag(s) with good sides together
• Interfacing
  • Cut 2 front(s) with good sides together
  • Cut 2 pocket interfacing(s)

Caveats

• Do not cut out the front dart
• Do not cut out the back dart
• Watch out for the grainline on the pocket welt and pocket facing